Alpine Cols - August 2017

The route!

This was a big challenge for the senior team, for six days taking on at least one major col as climbed by Tour de France pros in past years. But, fortified with regular intakes of local beer, wine, bread and copious quantities of regional delicacies, they managed to get 'up and over' safely and with a smile.

Organised by Exodus, the team joined nine other hardy souls, a good proportion of whom were seriously better cyclists, and could even beat Jan and Heyddie down the hill.

Our adventure started in Cuneo, northern Italy, the first big test to climb the hill from Vinadio to reach the Col de la Lombarde (2350m), and there cross into France. A long hot slog of 95 km with an ascent of 2170m, the workload measured by Fabian's Strava 'suffer score' of 371, denoted 'Epic.' 

Cuneo

Climb to Col de la Lombarde

Fabian and Heyddie at the Col de la Lombarde, part of stage 16 of the 2008 Tour de France

There were numerous ramps of between 9 and 10%, followed by a long descent to the ski mecca of Isola 2000 and multiple hairpin bends to reach the lower village of Isola. The last part of the day was a tiring pedal up the valley to our overnight stop at St. Etienne-de-Tinée. An exhausting first day, Jan pledging to fuel himself more the following day (and that didn't mean more beer!).

The Prez finally arrives in the village of Isola, after a typically 'steady' descent down lots of scary bends...the more competent descenders kindly waiting for him...

The second day took the team north-west into the Parc National de Mercantour, a pleasant steady ascent at an average of 6.7% to reach the Col de la Bonette at 2802m. Great views all the way, although only Heyddie went to the 'summit,' the Cime de la Bonette at 2850m, Jan missing the turn in his excitement at just reaching the col without bonking, and Fabian suffering a Di2 malfunction...hmmm. A great descent to the village of Jausiers, where we enjoyed an excellent evening meal in the Hotel Bel Air. A shorter day, 47 km with 1516m of climbing, and only recording a Strava suffer score of 155, merely 'Extreme.'

Fabian en route to the Col de la Bonette

Heyddie with Brisbane riders Debra and John just below the Col de la Bonette
(col used by the Tour in 1962, 1964, 1993, 2008 and 2016)

Looking back on the ascent

Heyddie setting off to climb the final slope to the Cime de la Bonette 2850m

Cime de la Bonette, seen from the descent route

Continuing north-westwards, next day took us along the Ubaye valley, with a 4.5 km 'excursion' (all uphill and steep at the top...) to view the century-old bridge above a deep ravine, the Pont du Châtelet above St. Paul-sur-Ubaye. Returning to the main route, we then took on the climb to the Col de Vars (climbed by the Tour twenty times since 1947), an ascent of 8 km but with steep gradients (9-10%) taking us to the col at 2109m in hot sunshine. A wonderful descent, even enjoyed by Fabian, yielding views north to the high peaks of the Ecrins, brought us to the small town of Guillestre, and the great little Hotel le Catinat Fleuri. The day's stats: 52.4 km, 1090m climbed, and the Prez's 'suffer score' just 136 - 'Tough.'

Jan working hard to reach the Pont de Châtelet

The senior team at the Pont de Châtelet

And so the climb starts...

On the descent to Guillestre

Our fourth day in the saddle took us 17km through the Gorges du Guil, involving some tunnels, although thankfully lit. We then turned into the Combe du Queyras, following the Guil in an initially wide open valley, before some steep turns led us to some long straight uphill sections through to the village of Arvieux. This was followed by some steep hairpins up through the forest to reach the famous la Casse Déserte, a section of barren rockscape immediately before the summit of Col d'Izoard at 2360m. A great col, with massive views, followed by a long, fast descent of some 20km to the large town of Briançon. We stayed at the Hotel Edelweiss, last visited on our 2005 Tour of the Ecrins trek.

Stats: 50.7 km, 1399m of climbing, Strava suffer score 142, 'Tough.'

View from hairpins above Arvieux

Approaching la Casse Déserte

Fabian climbing the Col d'Izoard

Heyddie and Jan, Col d'Izoard, 2360m (col used by the Tour de France 23 times since 1947)

Top section of the descent from Col d'Izoard before coffee stop at Chalet Napoleon

Team dinner in Briançon

Our penultimate day took us up to the Col de Galibier, 2645m, a long haul of some 4-5% on the busy road out of Briançon, with expansive views to the glaciated peaks of the Ecrins. A short tunnel brought us to the Col de Lauterets 2058m, after which the proper climb to the Galibier began. 

Sweeping hairpins, dodgy road surfaces, the high pitched alarms of marmots, and precipitous, unprotected drops, preceded our arrival at the col, only attained by a final kilometre at a lung-busting 11% gradient. What a great top!

A technical descent to Valloire followed, the town full of traffic associated with a 4WD festival, before a straightforward 6 km ascent to the Col du Telegraphe at 1566m (not so easy to climb from the other direction!). After a sunny lunch stop, there followed a very long descent to the Maurienne valley, before a fast flat bunch ride to reach St. Jean-de-Maurienne. Good hotel - Hotel du Nord. Today's stats: 86.6 km, 1595m climbed, Strava suffer score 177, 'Extreme.'

Glaciers on the Ecrins

Approaching the Col de Lauterets

The only way is UP!

Top section of the Col de Galibier climb

Start of the long descent to the Maurienne valley

Col du Telegraphe

Our final day arrives! Road works forced us to climb an additional col, the Col du Mollar (1638m), through Albiez-Montrond. Damp from overnight rain, this was tough start to the day, with ramps of up to 10% in quite a few places. Breaking free from the wooded valley, we reached the open alp of Albiez, before a tricky, technical descent on poor surfaces to get us back to the original route from St. Jean-de-Maurienne to the Col de la Croix de Fer. This involved an increasingly challenging slope, notably through the town of St. Sorlin-d'Arves, and on to the long final switchbacks to the col itself at 2067m. In order to get a view of Mont Blanc, we made a short detour to reach the Col du Glandon on our descent route, but then the real work started. An incredibly long descent, with challenging hairpins followed by long straights, and, somewhat annoyingly a series of 12% ramps to climb before the final fast drop down to our lunch stop at Allemond.

Decision time: to do l'Alpe d'Huez or not? In the case of Jan and Fabian, this was easy. No way. Too tired, too bloody hot! But for Heyddie, another challenge, and one completed by nine of the group. Chapeau to all!! 

Stats excluding l'Alpe d'Huez: 79.1 km, 2154m of climbing and a Strava suffer score of 207, 'Extreme.' Heyddie's stats: 107.6 km, 3182m of ascent. His suffer score? Easy, he would say!

A tough start to a long day: the climb up to the Col du Mollar

Les Aigles d'Arves on the horizon, with St. Sorlin d'Arves in the valley below

Hot climbing above St Sorlin d'Arves

A happy Heyddie

Col de la Croix de Fer (climbed by the Tour 15 times since 1947), with Col du Glandon in the near distance

The 'elite team' at the top of l'Alpe d'Huez...Chapeau!!

Our final night was spent in the cyclist's mecca of Bourg d'Oisans, with a predictable quantity of beer and wine to celebrate a safe and enjoyable week. 
And, finally, a big shout-out to Thierry, the leader employed by Exodus, and the Aussie John, who got around the entire trip with suspected chicken-pox!!

The full week covered 412 km and without l'Alpe d'Huez, the total ascent was 9971m (30,910 feet...more than Mount Everest!). A great trip.

Academy blitz the Lakes!

STOP PRESS!

Report received from Carlos, Academy Captain on 16 July:

"Mrs Cipponeili had found an incredible cottage with a prominent position overlooking Rydal Hall and views all the way to Windermere. You'd expect nothing less for a cottage neighbouring the final home of William Wordsworth.  

The WAGs had agreed to let us squeeze in a few short rides, so when we awoke to a misty, windless morning, we were into our team kit as soon as the last of the Kelloggs multi-pack had been polished off.

I'm still not sure if Mario's 'I'll be back by 12pm' was naivety, stupidity, or simply gamesmanship!  

Our first ride was going to be the beautifully challenging Wrynose and Hardknott passes from the east, before a U-turn to take on Wrynose from the west, then home.

After bypassing Ambleside town centre by hugging the Rothay River from Rydal we quickly turned off the main route to Coniston at Skelwith Bridge, and were met with a '30% gradients ahead' sign, giving a gentle warning of what to expect. The next two miles of gentle gradient were easily taken in the big ring and at the top of the climb, Mario's comment of 'Wynrose Pass was pretty easy' again had me thinking; naivety, stupidity, gamesmanship? 

We had a reached a fork in the road.  Right to Langdale, or left to Wynrose with another gradient warning sign. There isn’t much need for the sign, the wall of tarmac beyond it explains all you need to know.       

Our combined weights of close to 30 stone helped us both instantly choose our 'granny gear' as we slowly started to gain elevation. We had the road to ourselves, until the screaming clutch of a Corsa behind got our attention. And, being polite cyclists, we stopped zig-zagging across the carriageway to let them past. Our zig-zagging hadn’t been for effect and a full-on assault of Wrynose was too much for Mario. The now unavoidable steepness forced him to stop suddenly, leaving me with nowhere to go but to taste some of the steepest tarmac in the UK, much to the horror of a Corsa driving pensioner. For a moment we thought it was the Prez, then we realised he was incontinent.....oops, on the continent.  

  

After a quick check of body and bike, starting again on such a narrow, steep road wasn’t easy, but after a few failed attempts we made it and the slow slog uphill continued. Mario had been setting the early pace, but after the crash, my adrenaline was pumping and I set off for the summit, waiting for Mario after a descent with views so beautiful it distracted from the dangerously tight hairpins we had to navigate. 

After regrouping, we rode to Cockley Beck together along the most beautiful stretch of road we'd ridden in the UK. It's a road straight out of a Top Gear episode, helped by three high end German convertibles roaring past us.

As we approached the start of Hardknott Pass, Mario explained his slowness on Wrynose. His cleats are so well worn, his right foot wouldn’t stay clipped in, stopping him standing up and getting as aggressive as the climb necessitated.

Hardknott is a climb of unrelenting steepness, especially so at the start, with a perfectly straight 100m section of 30% to get you going.   The gradient can't be reduced by taking a longer line, the road is so narrow a zig zag isn’t possible, and if you stay in the saddle, every pedal revolution casues the front wheel to lift violently and the feeling of flipping backwards raises the heart rate even more. Mario's one cleated climb was over.    

After the initial tarmac 'mur,' a kilometre of 8% feels relatively achievable and gives the body and mind a chance for a moment for slight recovery before the final 500m to the top. The final twists and turns of 30% incline were almost impossible, and without courteous car drivers giving this snail-paced cyclist right of way, it wouldn’t have been possible.  As well as helping me stay in the saddle, nearly every car I passed either questioned my sanity or shouted like I was a Tour winner, all helping me reach the top.

Finally I made it.  With time for  a quick selfie, a pat on the back, I was soon on the hand numbing return to my pal with my brakes on full lock.

   

Once we'd taken Wrynose from the west, a celebratory pint at the HQ was on the agenda and Mario set a great rhythm, until a puncture halted me in my tracks.  On closer inspection, I’d  shredded a section of the tyre wall, causing my new inner tube to balloon out and hit the brake pad........   Wrynose on a working bike was going to be tough enough, let alone trying to do it with the brakes on! At least my slowness gave me time to construct my 'I need a new bike argument' once I was back at the ranch.

We limped back to Ambleside, but the problems of the crash, the cleat and the clincher tyres had caused our quick ride to take longer than Mario's optimistic target and we were forced to skip a stop at the Golden Rule to get back for some quality time with family."

Mario topping out 'The Struggle' from Ambleside

Mario says 'my face is too red to photograph'...

Carlos says 'see how red my face is.' Presumably blushing with pride after his second ascent of The Struggle.'

Oh, little do they know what's ahead... 

Wrynose Pass from Little Langdale

And then on to Hardknott pass!

Hardknott Pass...looking east

Hardknott Pass...looking west to the summit. Looks easy doesn't it?

...except when you obliterate your tyre.

GRAC 'Ol Boys Hit Rioja, the Pyrenees and St Emilion

Well, it had to be done. Following earlier cycling forays into the wine lands of France, it was only going to be a matter of time before Spain's most famous wine producing region got a visit from the senior team.

Suitably rehydrated at the Royal Standard, close to the team's southern outpost in Beaconsfield, and fortified by Mrs Mercxx's fine cooking, the chaps set off at dawn the following day to catch a ferry to Cherbourg and drive down to La Rochelle for an all-too brief overnight stop. 

The delightful port town of La Rochelle

The road to Rioja via Bordeaux was a busy one, but crossing the Pyrenees in fine weather, the chaps were soon into their first beer at the comfortable Sercotel Villa de Laguardia. A pleasant spot, a few minutes walk from the tenth century fortified town of Laguardia, built in defence of the kings of Navarra.

About to sample some local wines :-). Laguardia. 

View north to Basque country from Laguardia 

View east to Navarra from Laguardia

The first day's cycling took us on a loop around the whole wine producing region of Rioja, quiet lanes for the most part, with good surfaces and plenty of rolling hills to keep us busy. Some 68km out to Haro and back, including a quick look at the 'designer' buildings of the Marqués de Riscal winery, hotel and restaurant in Elciego. The day was marred a little by extremely strong and blustery winds from the east, giving the Prez a few scares with his new deep-section wheels. Oh, and one short, but highly dangerous section of a major road out of Haro, where articulated lorries rushed pass at close quarters. We soon got off of that! 

San Vicente de la Sonsierra

The Prez, seeking shelter from the wind...

Classic Rioja landscape, the river Ebro flowing serenely through the region

Alberto was also delighted to find a number of vineyards named after him, although a bottle of 'Contador' was maybe a little out of his price bracket!

In all we climbed almost 1000m, and the return leg, albeit through delightful scenery bounding the north bank of the river Ebro, was a good test into the wind.

We all decided that a four hour stint each morning would be enough given the intense heat, over 30ºC from early afternoon, and the threat of afternoon storms for the following two days reinforced our plans. It also made for a very enjoyable lunch back at the hotel, followed by a long siesta, so that we could hit the town with full energy in the evening. 

For a flypast of part of the route follow this link

Our second day's outing took on a bigger challenge, ascending the hills into Navarra to the east, a great route of some 65km, with 1120m of ascent. Fantastic vistas to the south across Rioja down to the city of Logroño, empty roads, and thankfully, less wind. But the last climb back up to Laguardia was a struggle for all, about 3km of straight road at 6% in the searing heat of midday. Phew! Of course, the routine of a good lunch, siesta and indulgent dinner in town later was now well established.

The climb out of Elvillar

Into Navarra

Jan and Alberto enjoying the climb!

The three amigos topping out the first big ascent into Aguilar de Codés

'Ice cold in Laguardia'

For a flypast of this route follow this link

Our final day's plan had been to cycle some 64km north across a mountain into Basque country, but the Prez had developed a full-on cold and storms were forecast from late morning, so a quick re-route took us back into the vineyards of Rioja, exploring new lanes (oops, and some very steep ramps and a gravel track...hmmm) but back in time to miss heavy rain which arrived for a short time in the afternoon.

Heyddie looking fresh for another ride through Rioja

Jan, Fabian and Alberto about to attack the last 5km

For a flypast of most of this route follow this link

Next day we headed back across north-eastern Spain, via Pamplona, to reach Lourdes, situated at the base of the Pyrenees, to ready ourselves for a crack at one of the most infamous of the Tour de France climbs, the Col de Tourmalet. Lourdes was teeming with pilgrims from all over the world, all visibly delighted to be in this most sacred of places for Catholics. An afternoon and evening stroll from the efficient Hotel Alba saw that we covered the ground as well, ensuring proper fuelling and hydration prior to our attempt on Tourmalet. But, evening storms, with the streets turning into rivers, did not bode well. Ah well, let's have another glass then...

Predictably, we awoke to grey skies, low cloud and showers, so decided to drive up the Col summit at over 2100m to see if there was any visibility and easing of conditions.
There wasn't. Tricky driving in dense fog, and only a very few (certifiable) cyclists seen, convincing us that driving on to Bordeaux was the best option.

A few hours later, on an empty autoroute, we arrived in the medieval hill town of St. Emilion, source of some of the finest red wines in the world. Our next three nights to be spent in the perfectly located Au Logis des Remparts, we were swiftly into town for an excellent long lunch and another fine dinner in the evening.

The following morning saw us saddle up and head into the vineyards north of the town, passing chateaux with reputations for great wines: Angelus, Cheval Blanc and Petrus to name but a few. Alas, the storm clouds were on our heels again, forcing a retreat from Lussac, and giving us all a good soaking.

Hey ho...another bibulous lunch and lazy afternoon followed, hopeful that the next and final day in the region would give us more clement conditions for riding. A walk around St Emilion revealed more delights of this beautiful fortified town, constructed in creamy white limestone throughout. A good dinner was enjoyed at Café Saigon in the evening, Vietnamese fayre rather than the usual French cuisine.

And, the weather delivered for our final day, Jan, Heyddie and Alberto completing a 45km circuit which took in the north and south banks of the Dordogne, whilst Fabian went back to bed to deal with man flu, now into its sixth day. The usual luncheon followed, Fabian corralled into joining the team for more unnecessary calories at the club's favourite watering hole, L'Envers du Décor.

Team's last day cycling along the Dordogne valley, just south of St Emilion

The final word. A lot of driving to ride not a lot of kilometres, but an enjoyable adventure discovering the delights of Rioja and St Emilion, both for the scenery, villages and the local produce. It can safely be said that calories consumed were not exceeded by calories burnt on the hill.