Tour of Northern Sardinia - Sept 2020

 

Another expedition for the GRAC 'Seniors' – Fabian, Jan, Heyddie and Alberto, enjoying the coastal scenery and mountains of northern Sardinia in pleasantly warm weather. A seven day tour organised by the folks at Sardinia Cycling with nice hotel stops and good food throughout. 

It's lumpy country – 9,701 metres climbed over a distance of 644km (average 1386m and 92km per day), many on deliciously empty roads, particularly on the inland sections. But, a word of warning for those of you who are thinking of cycling in Sardinia. Motorists are typically impatient, close passes occur frequently as they attempt to squeeze past you (often on a bend!) and road surfaces in some of the smaller towns were poor. The busiest roads were found west out of Porto Torres and on the coastal section northwards back to Olbia.

But, overall, a good trip, as the images below will testify.

Day one took us from Arzachena across the north of the island, through limestone country, with a long valley climb into Aggius. A steep pull took us up into La Valle della Luna, an area of giant granite outcrops and many collapsed boulders, before a fast descent in blustery winds down to Badesi. Many hairpin bends and great views to the sea. Our journey ended in Castelsardo, the hotel opposite a small bay overlooked by the castle and town straddled on the slopes below it. 96km and 1481m of climbing.

On day two we cycled south to the bustling coastal resort of Alghero, starting with a coastal route to Porto Torres with great scenery and a long cycle path through pine forest. West from the port was less pleasant, passing through an extensive industrial area, with petrochemical plants and a power station in full view (plus loads of litter along the roadsides, this being a regular feature of cycling in this region). Then south into increasingly arid countryside, although road conditions deteriorated as we approached the peninsula just west of Alghero itself. A slight hiccup on arrival, the GPS file pointing us to the wrong hotel, the latter eventually found some 40 minutes later, causing an outburst of grumpiness in The Prez, soon resolved after a beer or two. A fine dinner in Il Pesce d'Oro in town. 103km and 701m of climbing.

Day three: regrettably, Alberto had to rearrange his day and join us at our hotel later, but the three 'Col Collectors' carried on, southbound along a fine section of coastline on empty roads. On one section of 18km, we saw no other vehicle – bliss. A quick lunch break in Bosa, and then onwards into the mountains with a long hot climb up through Cuglieri, where forests kept the sun at bay. Then a fine descent into Santa Lussurgiu and our rustic hotel, the fabulous Antica Dimora della Gruccione, accessed down a narrow cobbled street. The hotel is an eighteenth century manor house, still run by the original family, and designated an 'Albergo Diffuso.' A wonderful tasting menu, with matching wines, was enjoyed in a little internal courtyard, adequately rewarding the efforts of the day. 85km and 1843m of climbing.

Almost half way now, the full team starting day four with a pleasingly long descent and long flats to the reservoir of Omedeo Lake, after which there was a sustained climb into the western Gennargentu Mountains. A coffee stop in Ardauli, and hill after hill was 'enjoyed,' passing granite outcrops and then forest as we reached the higher elevations (cork, olive and dwarf oak trees in abundance). We had a great lunch stop in Tonara at the Acquarium, a café where the owner went out of his way to serve us huge sandwiches with his own home-grown tomatoes, finished off with complimentary local nougat. Then a stunning 10km descent to Aritzo, before tackling the final pull up to our hotel, the Sa Muvara. Great dinner here too.  87km with 1789m of climbing.

Day five, another big day ahead, taking us across the Gennargentu Mountains, first northwards to Fonni, then south-east to the Orlando Resort at Villagrande Strisaili. We reversed 9km back out of Aritzo, then started a 14km climb (the last 5km at an average gradient of 6%) to cross the Tascusi Pass where we had a coffee stop. There followed a beautiful descent on great surfaces before some rollers into Fonne, where we had a short lunch stop - a busy little town on a Sunday. Suitably fortified, we then climbed to the Correboi Pass on roads devoid of any traffic, the route now completely bypassed by a new road and tunnel. Awesome climb, far reaching views from the pass, then a LONG descent on roads now closed to traffic, although speeds needed to be tempered as we ran into random herds of cows and goats, and with a very sketchy surface for the last 5km. Rollers into Villagrande Strisaili. 83km and 1534m of climbing.

Our penultimate day saw us head north, reversing 13km of the previous day's toils, and then north-east on empty roads (apart from cows, goats and a close encounter with a wild boar!). Alberto took another rest day. A long descent took us through Talana, and uphill through forest to Urzulei. From here, the main climb of the day began, with 8km averaging 6% to the Silana Pass. Huge views and little traffic to bother us, before a really long, easy descent which traversed the east side of the iconic Gorropu Gorge, one of the deepest canyons in Europe. A short tunnel led us to a final, technical, descent to the bay at Cala Gonone. Nice hotel, the Costa Dorada, on the seafront with great seafood enjoyed during an evening thunderstorm, the only rain seen on the trip. 80km with 1133m of ascent.

Our final day, with a warm start out of Cala Gonone, and quickly reaching the crux of today's ride, a 3km concrete road with an average gradient of 10% (16.2% recorded at one point). This was readily climbed -one way or another :-) - by all, and provided great views back down to the bay. Thankfully, a band of high cloud ameliorated temperatures as we headed inexorably northwards on two modest climbs, some long descents and occasional sea views, but the riding today was generally without any excitement apart from many close passes by traffic on the busy 25km run in to Olbia. 113km and 1197m of ascent.

An uneventful flight home, and with the usual curry and beer celebration to conclude our trip. Chapeau chaps, and thanks to Mrs Merckx for her generous hospitality :-)