Rolling Hills and Wines of Piedmont

Another senior team adventure in Europe, this time to cycle in the Piedmont of northern Italy.

Gateway to Barbaresco

Flying over the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau on the way to Milan. Happy memories for the GRAC seniors...

Arriving via Milan Malpensa, after a spectacular flight across the Bernese Oberland, it took a transfer of almost two hours to reach our base, the Piedmont Bike Hotel Lo Scoiattola in Pralormo, 30km south-east of Torino (Turin). We crossed Italy's largest area of rice production (think risotto!) with distant views to the rolling hills of Piedmont's wine regions quickly revealing themselves.

Pralormo is based on a flat agricultural plateau, with fields of corn and sorghum wheat, and hazelnut groves in abundance on slightly elevated ground, but it did not take more than 7km to hit the first hills of the Roero wine region. Our visit coincided with a pan-European heatwave, so daytime temperatures throughout the trip were around 30C, necessitating relatively early starts from the hotel with our affable guide Massimo.

Suitably fortified by the hotel's excellent food, pints of Moretti and some good local wines (with some lesser known grapes,Grignolino, Pelaverga and Ruche, giving us some elegant, lighter reds), our cycling routes offered some great scenery, generally quiet lanes up on to ridges and steeply down into the adjacent valleys, often on some sketchy surfaces, but excellent riding nonetheless.

Day 1 took us towards Turin, the only day that cloud affected views to the great wall of the Alps further north, and the day that Heyddie discovered that his front disc brake had failed. Fortunately, the very able mechanics at CicliGai in Chieri were able to fix the fault, so our ride was not impacted further and H lives to tell the tale. A nice ascent with a steep final pull took us to the Basilica di Superga, offering a superb view of the city. Some fast and often sketchy descents brought us back down to the plain and the hotel for a late lunch. A good warm-up day: 81km, +746m, moving time 3h37m.

First proper hill of the tour, Jan and the Prez with guide Massimo

Heyddie finding his hill climbing legs again...

Riva Presso Chieri

View north to Torino

Basilica di Superga

Day 2 started with clear blue skies, but a cooling breeze from the Alps to the north helped to mitigate the early build up of heat. We headed north-east through fields of corn and sunflowers, then east to reach the town of Asti in the Monferrato wine region, probably best known for Asti Spumante, but many growers here focus on the Nebbiolo grape for red wine. 

Our ride took us out on a fast flat for 10km, but we were soon into some steep hills and deep valleys on the approach to Asti. Sketchy surfaces and some technical descents kept us busy. Like every other town and large village in this region, our tour of Asti involved cycling on cobbles, a challenge to one's 'nether regions' to be repeated many times over the course of the trip! A quick lunch in Asti, with cheese and ham toasties, was enjoyed.

Roatto

Jan and Heyddie in new tour kit...the Prez had to be persuaded to don green colours later in trip...

Asti

From Asti we turned west then south-west, some of the route on very narrow single-track lanes, and some gradients in excess of 16%, spotting deer and one errant angry dog along the way. A good day out, although very hot on our return to base: 88km, +838m, moving time 3h55m.

Heyddie with Jeremiah, making light of the hills...

Day 3 - an earlier start today to get some distance behind us before the heat of the day, this time heading south-west. Views north to the Alps slightly clearer today, the pyramidal peak of Monte Viso emerging through the haze as we passed through pear orchards and stands of bamboo to reach the Roero region - the land of hill towns, small private castles and ubiquitous towers. 

A simple coffee stop in Corneliano d'Alba, then across the Tanaro river to begin a steady climb up through the vast vineyard landscapes to reach Barbaresco. Magnificent views to the north and south as we followed the long crest of the ridge where Barbaresco proudly stands with its fine tower.

Up through the hazelnut groves

Through the pear orchards

This is what we came for!

Excellent!

Lunch at a wine bar here, enjoying a nice Barbaresco, Pellissero 2018, with local cheese and meats. Replete, we continued along the ridge with a final sweeping descent to reach the busy town of Alba. We then headed north across the Tanaro to tackle the rolling hills around Vezza d'Alba, and then a fast descent on wide, empty roads back to Pralormo. A superb day: 85km, +1024m, moving time 4h02m.

Our evening at the hotel was marked with a little celebration of the eleventh anniversary of that auspicious day, 7 September 2012, when the Prez had suggested that he, Jan and Heyddie should climb Cho Oyu (a mere 8188m) on the Nepal/Tibet border in 2013. This proposal was, of course, immediately rejected by J & H, who suggested that we should instead ride bikes from Lands End to John o'Groats. So, here we were, eleven years on, slimmer and greyer, and to mark the anniversary with a decent bottle (well, two actually) of a 2012 Barolo, Gigi Rono - Atione. This wine turned out to be a tad disappointing, despite the cost, as it had gone 'over the top', i.e. a little too old. Hey ho. 

Our fourth day of cycling was an easier one, less climbing overall but still very hot, and this time without Heyddie who decided to nurse a minor injury to ensure full fitness for the bigger rides planned for later in the trip. 

Southwards again, up and through Capelli on to the first ridge. Empty roads, hazelnut groves, and a viper on the road, before a descent to a flat agricultural plain for about 15km. Goats, herds of Fassone cattle and fields newly ploughed ready for planting. 

Into Bra, a lively market town and more cobbles, renowned for its cheese festival and as the birthplace of the 'Slow Food' concept. We enjoyed a glass of Barbera d'Alba, local sausages and cheese, courtesy of a very affable local wine merchant. Then a sharp climb out of the town, before more rollers back to Pralormo. 81km, +725m, moving time 3h43m.

Bra

An entirely appropriate bike park...

Sommariva Perno

Sorghum

Our evening was enlivened by a most enjoyable visit to the 'Martini Experience', with a tour of their museum preceded by a tutorial on mixing Fiero Tonic, an Americano, and a Martini Negroni. Great fun. Dinner back at the hotel with a good red, a Barbera d'Asti, La Tota 2020 from Marchesi Alfieri.

And, now time for a rest day. Lazed around the hotel all day, a decent lunch with local chardonnay, then taken to the winery owned by the cousin of the hotel manager Gianni. The wine tasting was at the Cantina Marsaglia in Castellinaldo, near Alba. Wines included a white, using the Arnais grape, Barbera d’Alba and a Nebbiolo. The best of the bunch was their Brich d’America. Some good carpaccio, risotto and a fine Gorgonzola enjoyed. 

Back to cycling. Day 5, and today joined by a group of three Aussies from Canberra. An easy pace to start, before a steep early climb up to the castle in the nearby town of Pralormo. from there, good surfaces offered flat, fast riding on main roads taking us eastwards, although we had to miss out two climbs, unfortunately closed for a classic car race. 

Then on to rolling hills to Villafranca d’Asti, before a good climb to Tigliole for coffee and croissants. 

We headed further on to a high ridge lined by attractive vineyards on a south-westerly track to Antignano and Govone, the latter requiring a short, steep climb. Great views from the terrace above the town square, and a nice Barbera d’Asti enjoyed with local cheese and meats. 

Tigliole

Castello di Govone

Glorious riding with huge views in hot sun before a steady pull to reach the 5* castle hotel at Guarene. Wonderful views to the south-west towards Alba and the Tanaro valley. More rollers and flat through Canale before a hard climb to Monta, where we rewarded ourselves with gelato. Then a final 9km flat to our hotel. 83km, +1003m, moving time 3h45m.

Guarene, with view towards Alba

Day six dawned, and it was to be a very hot one, reaching 30º C. Two Canadians joined us, so we were a group of ten with guide Massimo.  Rollers down to Alba via Montaldo Roero, with a brief coffee stop in Alba itself. 

Alba, famed for truffles and Ferrero, the confectioner

The Barolo team, three Aussies, two Canadians, with three English gentlemen, in Alba

We took a cycle way to exit Alba and were soon to enter the hills leading to Barolo, a premium wine growing area with much smarter vineyards and classier wineries in evidence. A long climb in mid-day heat up through Castiglione Falletto to reach the touristy town of Barolo, affording great views east and west to the extensive vineyards of this DOCG region. We took a quick stop here, then a long, hot climb to reach La Morra where a terrace yielded superb views. The best lunch of the trip then followed, with a fine Barolo accompanied by a great selection of local cheeses and meats. 

Castiglioni Falletto

Vineyards of Barolo

The Prez is finally persuaded to wear green kit...

Hot ride from Barolo to La Morra

 La Morra 

Pollenzo, home to the University of Gsatronomic Sciences

Suitably fortified, we descended rapidly for 5km to the Tanaro valley, west of Alba now. Flat, then on to rollers from Pocapaglia before a climb to Sommariva Perno, before a final flat run back to Pralormo.  

A superb day: 98km, +1056m, moving time 4h 27m.

 

In the evening we had a celebratory dinner with one member of our group, Jeremiah, who we had cycled with on all of our earlier rides. Having been impressed by his climbing ability, we had persuaded him to ride the Colle del Nivolet (2641m) as his first proper alpine climb. This he did, joined by a group of keen young cyclists from Malaysia who were also domiciled at our hotel. He beat the lot of them by 40 minutes, a testament to living and riding in the remote wooded hills of his home state, Vermont. Chapeau Jeremiah!

The magnificent Colle del Nivolet, a bit too much for the Senior GRAC squad this year...

Jeremiah, KoM, resplendent in yellow jersey, at the summit of Colle del Nivolet

A celebratory glass or two...

On our final day, Heyddie, the Prez and the hotel group rode north-east from Pralormo into the northern hills of the Monferrato wine growing region. A fast peloton took us across the flat plain and we were soon tackling three successive ridges, each with a sharp climb followed by a big descent. A coffee stop in Castelnuovo Don Bosco, then the first of two longer uphill sections, this one a 6km climb, rising about 250m, leading us to Albugnano. 

Climbing to Albugnano

Albugnano

Beyond Albugnano we descended a beautiful ridge on very narrow roads, made a photo stop in the village of Schierano, then dropped further to Boscorotondo. From here, the riding was more challenging with patches of gravel and an area of deep sand that brought us all to an abrupt halt. Another 6km of climbing, some, thankfully, through shade, then a fast flat via Villanova d’Asti to reach the hotel. A good day. 83km, +876m, moving time 3h 40m. 

Schierano

In all, a very good week of cycling in fine countryside. The Piedmont Bike Hotel Lo Scoiattola was clean and efficient, their cycling service excellent, and staff were great, notably Sara on reception and Liz in the restaurant. Our cycling guide, Massimo, was attentive, knowledgeable and fun to follow. Food and local wines were of high quality. 

As for the cycling, the rolling hills through the vineyards of the Piedmont were a joy to ride, although be aware that road surfaces were often sketchy, with cracking, and poor patch repairs. The cobbled streets of most towns and villages made for uncomfortable riding at times! Local drivers were not too bad, but some impatient (and close!) passes were experienced on a daily basis. 

The Prez, Jan and Heyddie had a jolly good time, and extensive tasting of local produce meant that all three will now require severe diets on their return. 

Using the Prez’s stats, a total distance of 597km was ridden, 6,268m climbed and just over 27 hours were spent in the saddle. More time, however, was spent in the bar….